Traveling to Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre Travel Tips
Trains between towns are €5 each time you board. That adds up very quickly so consider purchasing a Cinque Terre card. This also covers hiking between towns which is not free! Hiking between towns also requires closed toes shoes. Getting caught without them gets you fined!
The towns are known for fishing so order a seafood something if you don’t know what to eat.
Cinque Terre is in the region of Liguria which is known for inventing pesto sauce and focaccia bread. Both are phenomenal and affordable in Cinque Terre, especially the small pizzas on focaccia!
Booking a room a little bit inland will save you tons of money. You’ll still be within a 10 minute walk from the coast no matter where you stay.
Remember that some beaches are free. Especially in the case of Monterroso, the only major difference is that you’ll need to bring your own blanket, umbrella, or chair.
Our Cinque Terre Experiences
Cinque Terre is a coastal fairytale. Five colorful towns on cliffs above the ocean make up a world class coastline. The area is filled with basil, sunlight swims across the beaches, and the towns are full of enotecas tempting you to enter. At least that’s what Instagram tells you. We have visited Cinque Terre in peak season and off season to very different experiences.
We first visited in winter of 2022 without appreciating what off season meant for Cinque Terre. The five towns almost literally shut down. This makes rooms extremely cheap, you’ll have perfect photographic opportunities, and there will be many chances to visit with real locals. You won’t be seen as just another peak season tourist. Winter is the perfect quiet time. However, the chance of rain is much higher, and the temperature does drop. You’ll need a jacket because that coastal breeze is chilly! Expect local grocers to be your regular lunch option. We found every restaurant in Riomaggiore closed for lunch and only a couple offering dinner. That was the same situation in the four other towns, too. Returning in August 2023 was a total 180.
A Cinque Terre summer is a blast! Unlike in 2022 when we chose to stay in Riomaggiore based on food (that went poorly…), we stayed in Monterosso al Mare for 2023 based on hotel rates. And because the room offered air conditioning – an Italian summer essential. Monterosso al Mare was the definition of summer fun. The town’s multiple beaches offered us a chance to explore new areas each time we went for a swim. Restaurants and bars competed to pull us in with happy hour deals and lunch specials. No more grocery store lunches! Local vineyards hosted wine tastings and local chefs held pesto making classes. Hikes along the cliff edges between towns meant we could spend a morning walking from breakfast in one town to lunch in the next. An outdoor lover couldn’t ask for more options than a Cinque Terre summer.
However, knowing at least some of the major differences between each of the five towns would have helped a lot. This is our impression of each:
Riomaggiore may not sport as many scenic views as the other towns, but it has tons of charm and excellent outdoor options. You can swim in the pebble beach, walk above town to the castle, or take the Lover’s Lane walk along the seaside cliffs to Manarola. The trail was closed when we visited, but it’s scheduled to reopen in summer 2024. We want to return to complete a hike between towns! One of our favorite Cinque Terre restaurants Rio Bistrot is located near the town’s harbor and serves modern takes on simple classics at a great price. Riomaggiore really has a little of everything. You should stay here for outdoor variety and a slightly quieter time.
Manarola is an Instagrammer’s dream as the colorful city is perched perfectly over a harbor. An uphill trail wraps around the harbor away from town to the restaurant Nessun Dorma. They’re famous for pesto recipes and classes, along with some of Cinque Terre’s best views. That also likely makes Manarola your best option to watch sunset. Views aside, there are no great swimming options here. Your best outdoor option is to hike to Riomaggiore along Lover’s Lane. You should mostly stay here for the scenery and easy access to Lover’s Lane once it reopens.
Vernazza is the most famous of the five towns. Nice pebble beaches, many dining options, and killer views easily create a great time. Our favorite pesto in Cinque Terre is found at Pippo a Vernazza towards the back of town. Many coastal boating trips begin in the harbor. A hike above town towards Corniglia is very steep but has our personal favorite view in Cinque Terre. Even during a peak season weekend, only a few folks took advantage of sunset from this point. In summary you should stay here if you’re outdoors oriented but also want access to popular amenities. Just expect a busy town in peak season.
Monterroso al Mare is the largest town and divided in two by a large cliff that must be crossed via a tunnel. Both sides of town have large private and public beaches, and everyone we spoke to agreed that the best beaches were here. The food in town was especially notable. A shout out goes to Pasticceria Bar Laura which created a Monterossina. That perfect fruity chocolate pie slice is as good as any pastry we’ve had. Some of Italy’s best gelato is served in Gelateria La Scogliera which scoops perfect dark chocolate and stracciatella flavors. You’re staying here for the many beaches, extensive food and drink options, and coastal hiking to Vernazza.
No matter the time of year or town you stay in, it is very difficult to have a bad time in Cinque Terre.
